Raffle tickets

Description

History

Grooming

Judging

Performance

Past Phalenes

Fanciers

A Special Thank You to Judges

Photos

As They Grow

Phalenes in Art through Histroy

Clubs

Night Wing Edition Newsletter

Phalene Fanciers Email List

 Phalene Millennium Book Info

Phalene Art and items for sale on the web

Home

Email Us

 

Raffle tickets

Description

History

Grooming

Judging

Performance

Past Phalenes

Fanciers

A Special Thank You to Judges

Photos

As They Grow

Phalenes in Art through Histroy

Clubs

Night Wing Edition Newsletter

Phalene Fanciers Email List

 Phalene Millennium Book Info

Phalene Art and items for sale on the web

Home

Email Us

 


 


 

Raffle tickets

Description

History

Grooming

Judging

Performance

Past Phalenes

Fanciers

A Special Thank You to Judges

Photos

As They Grow

Phalenes in Art through Histroy

Clubs

Night Wing Edition Newsletter

Phalene Fanciers Email List

 Phalene Millennium Book Info

Phalene Art and items for sale on the web

Home

Email Us

 

Grooming The Phalene

 

 

By Pearl George

 

 

Although the Phalene and Papillon have often been called the 'wash and
wear' dog this does not mean that it does not require grooming.
Bathing and grooming is an important aspect for maintaining your dogs
health.

Bath time is when the owner should carefully go over the wet dog
looking for any unusual lumps or bumps, cuts and scratches.

Basic Bathing and Grooming Supplies:

(1) A good quality shampoo made for dogs for general use
(1A) A tearless puppy shampoo for the face.
(2) A good quality conditioning cream rinse.
Dog products are important because the dog has a different PH balance
to a human.
(3) One pair of small, slightly curved, blunt ended scissors.
(4) One pair small thinning sheers.
(5) One pair cat claw clippers (I prefer these as I find them easier
to use than the larger style dog nail clippers)
(6) Kwik-Stop or other brand styptic powder.
(7) Sterile eye lubricant. (Your vet can often give you a small tube
of this)
(8) Small tooth brush
(9) Doggy toothpaste.
(10) Cheese cloth or soft, small wash cloth - to wipe around muzzle if
needed
(11) towels
(12) hair dryer.
(13) Metal comb with small and medium teeth.
(14) Pin Brush (do not use the type with bobbles on the end of the
pins).
(15) Brush, preferably boar bristle set in a rubber back.
(16) Plastic pinafore/cloths cover. - to keep you dry.
(15) Q-Tips.

Step one. Thoroughly brush and comb the entire coat.

Step two. Put the sterile eye lubricant into the eyes

Step three. Put the dog in whatever it is to be bathed in. I use a
utility sink as it is high enough to be able to work easily with the
dog. Many people use their kitchen sink. I also use a small plastic
bowl with about 2 inches of water in it to stand the dog in. The
water will help to soften the nails which makes them much easier for
trimming when you are ready to do that.

Step Four. Soak the dog down with lukewarm water and apply shampoo and
work it in. This is the time to clean anal glands. A word of
caution, learn how to clean the anal glands correctly (It really is
very easy) and do not put your face behind the dog when you do this.
Sometimes the anal fluid sort of squirts out and if your face is too
close the, rather odoriferous fluid, can get on your clothing and
face.

Step Five. After bathing the body of the dog gently wash the face in
the tearless shampoo. While bathing the dog be careful not to get
water in the dogs ears. People have different ways of dealing with
that. Some will use a little cotton wool in the ears. Personally I do
not like that as I feel fibers can get down into the ear and irritate.
I must admit that I have developed a method of using my little finger
to block the ear canal. Advise from your vet on the best method does
not hurt.

After the body and face are well shampooed I remove the bowl and let
the dog stand in the sink on a small rubber bath mat. Then rinse the
shampoo out of the coat. This is the time to carefully run your hands
over the entire dog checking for any thing unusual. When the shampoo
is well rinsed out take the Q-Tip and clean the outer edges of the ear
canal. Do NOT push the Q-tip down into the ear canal itself.

Next, apply the cream conditioner. Work in well and then rinse out
thoroughly.

Wrap the dog in a towel and towel dry slightly. I prefer warmed towels
but that is not necessary if the room is reasonable warm.

Next clip the dogs nails, if needed, while they are still softened
from standing in the water.

Time to dry the dog. If the dog has been trained to stand still on a
grooming table that is great, if not place a large towel on the
ground, stand the dog on the towel and sit down beside it. Take the
hair dryer and the pin brush. While blowing the 'warm' air against
the lay of the coat gently use the pin brush to brush the coat to the
lay of the hair.

By this I mean, when using the dryer the hair should lift as the warm
air is blown onto the dog but the coat should be gently brushed in the
downward motion. Remember to keep the dryer only on warm and keep it
moving. If the hair dryer stays in one place for too long a period of
time it can burn the dogs skin.

I will normally start on the ears and, for this I use the comb and my
fingers rather than the pin brush. I start by gently lifting the ear
fringes and letting the warm air blow through it. When the fringe is
mostly dry I then take the comb and comb through the fringe (an anti
static comb is best) and finish drying it. Next I do the ruff and the
rest of the coat with the pin brush. When the body coat, ruff, back,
sides, culottes (skirts) and tail plume are dry I lay the dog on its
back and dry the underneath. I will use the pin brush on the underside
of the chest area but use the soft brush around the 'family jewels' on
the male. A very small comb can also be useful in this area.

Once the underneath of the dog is dry I brush the top side coat down
again.

After the dog is dry I use the small blunt ended scissors to trim the
hair out from between the pads of the feet as needed and the thinning
sheers to trim the back of the back legs from the foot to the hock.
Trimming the back legs slightly helps to keep the dog clean. Simply
comb the hair on the back of the back leg up towards the hock. Cut
with thinning sheers and comb the hair back down again. This may be
needed just once or several times depending on how much feathering the
dog carried on his back legs. The idea is to have it look clean and
neat, not chopped or shaved.

Some owners prefer to clean the dogs teeth prior to bathing, others
after bathing. I preference prior to bathing as, sometimes, the
toothpaste can get a little spattered on the dogs ruff.

In between bathing use the bristle brush and the comb to groom the
dog. Daily is best but the coat will normally stay clean for several
days if daily brushing is not possible. Do pay close attention to the
soft hair at the base of the dogs ears as this is one area where it
does have a tendency to mat.

If the dog does get a mat simply use your fingers to separate the hair
as much as possible. Next use a little cream rinse on the hair and
then, taking the comb, hold the mat by the base and, starting at the
outer edge of the mat, start to comb the mat out. As one area is
cleared then move in slightly to the next section. If the mat is
really bad then one can take a small pair of scissors and, starting
from the inner part of the mat, and cutting in an outward motion, cut
the mat through the center in a straight line. Never cut towards the
dogs skin. Once cut then go to the finger method again. A simple comb
through on that fringe just once a day will keep mats from forming and
is certainly far preferable to trying to get the mat out.

The forgoing is basic grooming. Show grooming becomes a little more
involved, however, if the dog is kept clean and brushed out on a daily
basis there is very little additional work that should be required to
have the dog ready to enter the show or performance ring.

One thing that many show exhibitors do is to use a white enhancing
shampoo for bathing when the dog is being readied for the show. Some
show exhibitors will cut the whiskers, other prefer not to, it is
personal preference.

How often should your Phalene be bathed? The generic answer to that is
'when needed', however, some people are concerned about bathing their
dogs in case it damages the coat. I believe that every week does not
hurt or every two weeks if preferred and the dog is kept clean.
However I might point out that many show dogs will be bathed two to
four times on a weekend and their coats certainly do not appear to
suffer from frequent bathing. Phalenes have very little oil in their
coats so frequent bathing is not going to cause a problem of removing
the coat oil, some breeds do require that oil. If a quality canine
shampoo and quality conditioning rinse is used I do not believe that
frequent bathing will harm the coat in any way.

While good grooming practices are important for the dog a beautiful
coat starts with a healthy dog and quality food. Internal or external
parasites can play havoc with the Phalenes coat. Many Phalenes are
allergic to flea bites and will scratch and bite at the areas bitten.
If the ear fringe is scratched out it can take many months, to a year,
for it to grow back again. Prevention is better than trying to fix
the problem caused by the parasites.

There are a number of flea products on the market. My own preference
is the type that is put on the dogs coat. I can not see any advantage,
and many disadvantages, to putting flea control products into the dog
when the outside products appear to work just as well.

Puppies raised on newspaper often have dirty looking coats which is
caused by the newspaper print getting on the dogs coat. Once this
happens it is difficult to get the dog looking clean. I use the roll
ends of newspaper which is white and absorbent. Butcher paper is not
absorbent and is, in my opinion, far to slick for firm footing for
puppies.

The type of bedding is also important. I have found that for daily use
the 'vet bed' is the very best. In the USA it goes by various names
but it is the white, fake fur, type of bedding that allows moisture to
pass through it while the top fabric remains dry. I usually put a
towel on top of the bedding as my Phalenes do like to have something
to 'scratch up' to make themselves comfortable. If you do use a towel
make sure it is the cut loop type and not the 'loop' which the dogs
can get around their nails. Also, remove the towels if they get holes
or loose thread in them. Anything that can get wound around a dogs
foot or nails or that they can get their heads though is dangerous.

A number of the dog catalogs sell the bedding. It can be purchased by
the
roll and cut to the size desired. It is especially good for the puppy
pens as not only does it keep the puppies dry but it gives them a good
firm footing. The fabric is machine wash and dry and bleach can be
used in the wash water.